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How China's Influence is Reshaping Kenya: A Complex Journey

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Chapter 1: An Unexpected Welcome

Upon my arrival in Nairobi, I anticipated the familiar Western brands — perhaps a McDonald's or Starbucks, or some European car models. However, as I traveled from the airport into the heart of the city, I was taken aback by the abundance of Chinese eateries, shops, and advertisements. My taxi driver, noticing my astonishment, laughed and remarked, "Ah, you're new here, right? China has made its mark all over Kenya!"

This cab ride offered a brief glimpse into the profound affection many Kenyans hold for China. Over the subsequent weeks, I would uncover a multifaceted relationship characterized by economic connections, cultural exchanges, and mutual aspirations. While there are certainly challenges and criticisms, the overall sentiment is far more favorable than I had expected.

A Brief Historical Context: From Mao to Major Developments

The bond between Kenya and China traces back to the 1960s, as both nations were establishing themselves post-independence. Mao Zedong's China provided vital support to Kenya's anti-colonial efforts, fostering early goodwill. However, it was during the 1990s and 2000s that this relationship truly flourished.

With China's economic rise, the nation turned its gaze towards Africa for resources and emerging markets. Kenya, given its strategic position and developing economy, emerged as a natural ally. Chinese businesses began to invest significantly in Kenyan infrastructure, from highways to railways to ports.

The Standard Gauge Railway (SGR), which links Nairobi to Mombasa, stands as the pinnacle of this collaboration. Finished in 2017, it reduced travel time between the two cities from 12 hours to a mere 4. During my journey on the SGR, I was impressed by the modern amenities and efficiency. A fellow traveler, a young entrepreneur named James, shared, "This railway has transformed everything. It's easier to conduct business and visit family. It demonstrates what's achievable through our partnership with China."

Produced with Midjourney by the Author

Show Me the Financial Connection: Economic Bonds

The statistics paint a clear picture of the strengthening economic relationship:

  • Trade between China and Kenya reached $5.3 billion in 2018, a leap from $186 million in 2002.
  • Chinese foreign direct investment in Kenya was $520 million in 2019.
  • Notable projects include the SGR ($3.8 billion), Lamu Port ($480 million), and various highways.

But the relationship extends beyond monumental infrastructure. A visit to Gikomba Market, Nairobi's vibrant center for secondhand items, revealed numerous vendors selling affordable Chinese electronics, footwear, and household goods. One seller, Mary, showcased her colorful plastic kitchenware, stating, "People appreciate Chinese products for their affordability. They may not be the best quality, but they serve their purpose."

Ni Hao, Kenya: Cultural Connections and Language Acquisition

The exchange isn't limited to products; ideas and individuals are crossing borders as well. Confucius Institutes, dedicated to teaching Chinese language and culture, have emerged in several Kenyan universities. I attended a Mandarin class at the University of Nairobi, surprised to find it filled with enthusiastic students.

One student, Peter, a 20-year-old, expressed, "Studying Chinese opens countless doors. I aspire to engage in business with China one day." When I inquired if he had visited China, he chuckled, "Not yet, but I will! For now, I practice by watching Chinese dramas on YouTube."

These cultural interactions are reciprocal. I met several Chinese expatriates who had developed a fondness for Kenya. Li Wei, who operates a tech startup in Nairobi, remarked, "Kenyans are incredibly welcoming and optimistic. It reminds me of China two decades ago — there's a palpable sense of opportunity here."

Soft Power and Media Influence

China's impact extends into Kenya's media landscape. CGTN Africa, the continent's branch of China's state broadcaster, is based in Nairobi, providing well-produced news segments that often depict a favorable image of China's involvement in Africa.

I watched some CGTN with Charles, a taxi driver in Nairobi. He appreciated its focus on African narratives but remained skeptical. "They consistently highlight the positive aspects of Chinese initiatives," he noted. "But we are aware of the issues too, such as labor practices."

While many Kenyans I encountered held positive views of China, they were not oblivious to the drawbacks. A 2020 Afrobarometer survey indicated that while 76% of Kenyans viewed China's influence positively, 87% expressed concerns regarding the nation's growing debt to China.

Challenges and Critiques

The relationship is not without its challenges. Some concerns I encountered included:

  • Debt worries: Fears that Kenya is accruing excessive Chinese debt.
  • Labor issues: Complaints regarding Chinese firms employing their own workers rather than locals.
  • Cultural misunderstandings: Issues stemming from differing business practices and social norms.
  • Environmental worries: Concerns that certain Chinese-backed initiatives may harm Kenya's ecosystems.

I spoke with Jane, an environmental activist, who voiced her apprehension regarding a proposed coal plant near Lamu, a UNESCO World Heritage site. "We need progress, yes, but not at the expense of our natural heritage," she asserted.

Looking Forward: The Future of Kenya-China Relations

As my time in Kenya drew to a close, I reflected on this intricate relationship. It’s evident that China's influence has yielded tangible benefits for Kenya — enhanced infrastructure, affordable products, and new business avenues. However, it has also introduced new challenges and dependencies.

Most Kenyans I spoke to seemed cautiously optimistic. They value China's investments and its approach to aid, which is often devoid of the political strings attached by Western donors. However, they also wish to uphold their autonomy and ensure that Kenya reaps equitable benefits from this partnership.

As James, the young entrepreneur I met on the SGR, articulated, "China is like a big brother to us now. Sometimes helpful, sometimes a nuisance. Ultimately, we must forge our own path."

The trajectory of Kenya-China relations will likely hinge on how well both nations navigate the accompanying opportunities and challenges. One thing remains clear — this relationship will continue to intrigue and surprise observers like myself.

The first video, titled "Chinese by blood, Kenyan by heart | KELLY ZHU | TEDxYouth@BrookhouseSchool," explores the unique identity of Kenyans with Chinese heritage, highlighting their experiences and contributions to both cultures.

The second video, "Kenya: Why does China need it? | Travel, garbage, markets," discusses the strategic importance of Kenya for China, examining trade dynamics, environmental concerns, and the intertwining of both nations in the global market.

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